Postcards from the South:
a train journey through the Andes

Sunrise over the world’s highest navigable lake feels like a privilege, and the experience comes with hot drinks, blankets, and a warm fire. Here, at an altitude of 3,800 meters, I witness the most beautiful dawn, with the sun reflected in golden hues across the immensity of the lake.

After breakfasting on the train and packing my bags, I leave the station and head for the Titilaka hotel: green hills, tiny houses, a patchwork of corn and potato fields, herds of alpacas, and the ever-present intense blue of the lake.

Titilaka––a member of the Relais & Châteaux collection––is situated on a remote private peninsula, with incredible views and direct access to the lake. The contemporary décor and exceptional comfort, the exquisite cuisine, and the smiles and kindness of the staff who welcome me, confirm that my stay will be a unique and special experience.

Choosing activities for the next few days is not an easy task. Each of them reflects the essence and diversity of this place, from boating, birdwatching, and kayaking, to visiting the Aymara Route or the churches of Juli and Pomata. There are options perfect for everyone! After carefully selecting the experiences which I want to share with you, it is time to rest and recharge.

The next morning, a boat is waiting for me with hot drinks onboard, blankets for the cold, and snacks. The first stop is at one of the floating Uros islands, built by hand using totora reeds; a unique setting where one is welcomed as a friend. My host shares with me details of what life is like on the island and the origins of his people. Technology has arrived at the islands, and today they have solar panels, and it is not uncommon to see islanders using cell phones and watching television.

Boarding our boat once more, we continue across the lake for another hour, heading for Taquile Island. Titicaca has a magical energy, and it is during this journey that it is possible to connect with its immensity and appreciate the legend of how its waters gave rise to the greatest empire ever seen in South America.

Taquile, with a total area of just three-square kilometers, has its own charm. The islanders are famous for their textile art, declared by UNESCO as part of the world’s Intangible Cultural Heritage. Fascinatingly, whereas in many parts of the world it is the women who are the main practitioners of textile art, here it is the men of Taquile who are renowned as the most skilled weavers.

Lunch is served in a charming house overlooking the lake, and when I arrive, I am welcomed by members of one of the local families, dressed in their traditional clothing. The opportunity to talk with them and learn about their customs and traditions is a truly enriching experience.

Taquile is also a unique natural setting. Here, one can walk among ceremonial spaces or agricultural terraces that recall the great days of Andean civilization. The turquoise waters of the beaches that ring the island are home to a wide variety of birds and fish not found in other parts of the country.

It is time to leave. A talk on the constellations and the sacred duality of the sun and moon at the heart of the Andean worldview awaits me in the evening. Thanks to the clear sky of the high plains, Lake Titicaca is the perfect place from which to view the stars; following the teachings of the yatiris and amautas of the past, for the first time I was able to see the Wawawara Hawira, or Milky Way.

My journey is coming to an end. Today, on the way to the airport, I visit the archaeological site of Sillustani. The sacred energy of this location, its imposing funerary towers, or chullpas, and the great Lake Umayo, awaken in me a deep sense of connection with the essence of ancient Peru. It is the perfect ending for a trip to one of the most wonderful destinations in our beloved country.