Ica:
Beyond the Desert

It was time to continue toward Ica, a region where the desert holds a fascinating paradox. Peru’s coast is arid because of a combination of factors that limit rainfall, including the cold Humboldt Current and the natural barrier of the Andes. And yet, vineyards, farmland, and a centuries-old pisco tradition flourish within this seemingly inhospitable landscape. After lunch and a short pause, we set out to discover another side of the region: the desert itself.

Aboard Can-Am vehicles, we crossed immense dunes, navigating climbs, descents, and hidden tracks as part of a playful team challenge to find a hidden treasure. The landscape seemed to shift from one moment to the next, while the experience brought something unexpected to the desert: adventure, camaraderie, and a shared sense of discovery.

As evening approached, the pace changed completely. We paused among the dunes to watch the sunset, raised a glass of sparkling wine, and ended the day with a campfire picnic beneath a sky full of stars.

That night, we stayed at Hotel Viñas Queirolo, surrounded by miles of vineyards. In just a few hours, we had moved from the Pacific Ocean to the dunes and finally to the vines: three entirely different landscapes, all revealing the remarkable diversity found along this stretch of Peru’s coast.

Our third day began early, as we headed toward the Canyon of the Lost, a geological formation hidden in the heart of the Ica desert.

We arrived by 4×4 and continued on foot, descending to the canyon floor. According to researchers, this landscape, once part of an ancient seabed, was shaped over millions of years. Walking between its towering rock walls reveals an Ica very different from the one most travelers imagine.

That afternoon, we returned to the world of pisco at historic Hacienda La Caravedo, founded in 1684 and considered the oldest continuously operating distillery in the Americas. We explored the hacienda, learned about its history, and, guided by experts, even created our own pisco acholado. Moving from simply observing the process to taking part in it gave the experience an entirely different meaning.

We ended the day with a toast from one of the hacienda’s viewpoints as the sun disappeared over the vineyards.

The following morning, we visited a farm dedicated to growing asparagus and blueberries. It is difficult to imagine agriculture playing such an important role in a landscape as arid as Ica, yet in recent decades, irrigation systems and new agricultural technologies have transformed the region into one of Peru’s leading agricultural export centers. During our visit, we followed the process from planting through export and even joined in some of the work ourselves.

Later, we arrived at Hacienda Tacama, and the journey took on another dimension. Its history dates back to the 1540s, when Francisco de Carabantes established what the winery identifies as South America’s first vineyard.

But Tacama’s significance goes well beyond its age. The hacienda preserves the character of Peru’s historic coastal estates, while its original winery exists alongside contemporary production. Its wines have earned recognition at international competitions, including the International Wine Challenge and the Decanter World Wine Awards, reflecting a tradition that has continued to evolve over time. We ended our visit with a tasting of wines and piscos, bringing us closer to a winemaking tradition that Tacama has kept alive for nearly five centuries.

Our final day began at Hacienda San José, in Chincha. Beyond its colonial architecture, the visit brought us closer to a fundamental chapter in Peru’s history, shaped by the forced arrival of Africans during the colonial period and by the extraordinary cultural legacy their descendants have preserved and enriched across generations. Today, Chincha is one of the great centers of Afro-Peruvian identity, especially through its music, dance, and traditions.

We explored the hacienda, its chapel, and its historic spaces before joining Afro-Peruvian musicians and dancers for a class.

We tried to follow the rhythm of the cajon, danced, and laughed as we encountered these cultural expressions in a far more personal way. It was one of those experiences where you stop being an observer and become genuinely part of what is happening around you.

As we began the journey back, it became clear just how many different ways there are to experience a region that, at first glance, may seem defined by the desert. Between the sea, the vineyards, the countryside, adventure, and the culture of Chincha, we discovered an extraordinary range of experiences and new possibilities for designing journeys around each guest’s interests.

But the inspection also left us with something that had never been on our checklist. There were endless conversations, spontaneous laughter, shared toasts, and memorable moments among women who work together. In the end, places are an essential part of every journey, but the people we share them with can completely transform the way we experience them.