Arequipa:
Land of volcanoes and condors

I continue on my way to the Santa Catalina convent, an oasis of peace in the middle of the bustling city. Its cobbled streets, its chapels, and its flower-filled courtyards transport me to another time. The convent was built to accommodate nuns of Spanish and Creole families, as well as the daughters of local indigenous leaders and some of the city’s wealthiest families. Covering an area of more than 20,000 square meters, its white stone structure, mostly in the colonial style and incorporating typical Andean features, display a range of colors, including blue and terracotta.

But Arequipa not only conquers me with its architecture and cultural heritage; the city’s delicious cuisine is also one of its great attractions. I allow myself to be tempted by the aromas that emerge from the traditional local restaurants known as picanterías, where the region’s most typical dishes are served. Stuffed pepper, spicy pork stew, shrimp chowder… every mouthful is a delight for the palate.

As I walk the picturesque streets of this colonial–style city, with a delicious cheese ice cream—one of Arequipa’s emblematic desserts—in my hand, I immerse myself in the unique atmosphere that has remained so faithful to its authentic origins.

Sunlight fills my room, inviting me to begin a new day in the White City. Today I will venture along the Sillar Route, an exploration that will allow me to discover the volcanic stone quarries that have shaped Arequipa.

When I arrive at the Añashuayco quarries, I find myself surrounded by the great walls of white stone that soar above us, silent witnesses to centuries of history and tradition. As I explore, I meet Fortunato, a quarryman who has been extracting stone from this site for more than 15 years, just like his father and grandfather before him.

With patience and dedication, he teaches me the secrets of his trade and invites me to put some of them into practice. I am impressed by his skill, but most of all by the pride he has in his work. Now I understand the meaning behind one of the city’s most famous sayings: “One is not born at the foot of a volcano by mere chance”. It is a motto that reflects the strength and passion which permeate the lives and activities of those who call this land their home.

Alongside quarrymen like Fortunato, sculptors also work here, and they, too, share their art with visitors. A few meters away, I can see a series of figures, columns, and even a high portal, carved entirely by hand.

Minutes later, I arrive at the Culebrillas ravine. Here, the landscape is imposing, with walls of white stone soaring skyward and narrow pathways that wind between them. With every step I take, I admire the natural and historic beauty of my surroundings, which include around thirteen groups of petroglyphs.

Something that catches my attention are the apachetas. It is a local tradition to assemble these cairns, made from stones placed one on top of the other, and to offer them to Mother Earth or Pachamama as a sign of respect and gratitude. I stop in front of one of them, and feel how much history there is behind it.

I say goodbye to Culebrillas, excited by the adventure and ready to continue my journey towards the imposing Colca Canyon. With a depth of 4,160 meters (13,648 ft), it is considered one of the deepest canyons in the world and a must-see destination for lovers of adventure and nature.

Along the way, I cross the Salinas and Aguada Blanca National Reserve, a natural sanctuary surrounded by volcanoes where wildlife coexists in harmony with the landscape. Here, I can see alpacas, llamas, and vicuñas up close, as well as an impressive variety of bird species, including the flamingos that inhabit the area’s lakes.

Before the sun goes down, I reach Puqio, a refuge composed of elegant little houses and tents, in the heart of Colca. From the terrace of my room, I enjoy a panoramic view of the valley as I savor a cup of muña tea, a native plant known as the mint of the Andes. I am ready to immerse myself in this unique experience and connect with the local culture that this cozy hotel has in store for me.

Colca is renowned for its restorative hot springs, and so I end my day with a relaxing bath, in preparation for tomorrow’s adventure.

I wake up very early, excited to explore more corners of this impressive valley. After a local breakfast of fresh local cheese and freshly baked bread, it is time to leave for the Pinchollo volcano, the slopes of which are home to geysers.

When I arrive, I am impressed by the imposing jets of water and hot steam that shoot up from the earth. Amid all the excitement of witnessing this natural wonder, I find myself compelled to pause and admire the snow-capped peak of the volcano. Suddenly, three condors come into view, welcoming me to this magical place. The sight of their majestic and elegant flight is an experience that will remain engraved in my memory forever.

In the afternoon, I set off on a short walk to the Uyo Uyo archaeological site. This small citadel, built by the Aymara-speaking Collagua people, is a living testament to the rich culture of the region. From here the best views can be enjoyed, especially when the golden evening sun bathes the landscape in orange tones.

The last day of my trip has arrived. I wake up with a special feeling, knowing that an unforgettable experience awaits me: a visit to Cruz del Condor, from where visitors can contemplate the majestic flight of condors, in all their splendor.

Winding in places, the route takes me through villages and scenic landscapes to the viewing point.

With growing excitement, I wait for the moment when the condors will make their appearance. And then, like guardians of these heights, I see them arrive, gliding with their enormous, outstretched wings—which can measure up to 3 meters—in a unique natural spectacle.

The time has come to return to Arequipa and embark on my journey homeward. I end this adventure with a gesture of gratitude to Pachamama, who has given me such beautiful days, filled with light and excellent weather. According to custom, with a grateful heart I splash a little wine on the ground, doing so in the hope of returning soon to the White City.