Ausangate:
The Trail of Cusco’s Guardian Apu

During the five days that the trail lasts, I will visit tambos—shelters, in Quechua—at almost 5,000 meters above sea level (16,404 ft). These are kept warm by gas heaters and lit by soft candlelight. I will enjoy a high-altitude diet and, followed by a relaxing hot shower, restful nights under feather duvets. Each day, as if engaged in weaving dreams into reality, a team of men and women take care of every detail of my stay in these lodges. Tirelessly, they trace the route from tambo to tambo, carrying with them all the necessary supplies, accompanied by their noble llamas. Accustomed to the local climate, they take shortcuts that put them ahead of the walkers, so that when we arrive everything is ready for our rest.

When the day begins there are no words to describe the sunrise, with a splendid snowcapped peak in front of me. Today I will walk for around 7 hours, at a slow pace. Walking at this altitude is demanding and requires good physical and mental preparation. It is a considerable challenge, but well worth it, as nature rewards me with spectacular scenery, crowned with three snowcapped mountains: Tres Picos, Mariposa and Ausangate. Up here, the only plants that thrive are the tiny flowers that have adapted to resist hailstorms.

Tonight, I will spend the night in Machuracay Tambo lodge, at 4,850 meters above sea level (15,518 ft), the closest to the imposing Mount Ausangate.

The next day is a magical day. We begin with an offering to Mother Earth, to thank her for this experience, the knowledge gained, and for sharing unforgettable moments. We continue to the Palomani high pass, at an altitude of 5,200 meters (17,060 ft), where, much more acclimatized, I walk at an improved pace. Between the mountains, views open up of turquoise lakes, and on the edge of one of these I witness a delightful scene: the marriage proposal of a lovely Mexican couple. This moment will remain etched in my memory, as a reminder that the greatest promises can flourish in the most pristine and dream–like places of my beloved Peru.

The third day’s walking is coming to an end. From the Anantapata Tambo lodge, the majestic snowcapped peaks appear so close. Tonight, I will sleep at 4,730 meters above sea level (15,518 ft).

The guides explained these shelters made from stone and wood took almost six years to build; everything needed for their construction was carried on llamas, horseback, and even by porters. Now, the llamas carry lighter loads, consisting only of backpacks, and their herders have been able to ensure the sustainability of their communities thanks to the tourist activity generated by the route.

For many, including me, day 4 is the most anticipated day, as I looked forward to arriving at Vinicunca mountain. However, as I advance towards my encounter with the mountain of seven colors, I realize that the authentic essence of this trip was what I experienced each day: walking with llamas and herders, passing lakes and snowcapped mountains, and spending time with amazing people who share my passion for hiking.

We arrive at the Warmisaya pass, at 4,985 meters (16,355 ft), in time to see the sunrise and a quick descent leads us to a lake where a picnic breakfast awaits us. When we are done, and after a short walk imbued with the mysticism only found in sacred places like this, I finally find myself facing Vinicunca. Its slopes are home to mineral deposits that dye it in turquoise, red, yellow, and green tones, creating an amazing rainbow effect. From here, we continue to the Red Valley, named for the crimson coloration caused by the presence of iron oxide in its rocks.

I will spend tonight at the Huampococha Tambo lodge, at 4,820 meters above sea level (15,814 ft).

The trip is coming to an end. Today I must say goodbye to the Andes, and the morning is filled with emotional conversations. After days spent sharing an exceptional adventure, not only with my fellow travelers, but also with the whole team that made this experience possible from beginning to end, I know that this final day is the perfect culmination of everything I have experienced.

We start walking early. On the final section of our route, I see a large group of wild vicuñas, and with each step I leave further behind the imposing snowcapped mountains that accompanied me, like guardians, during the entire trip.

I return home with the feeling of having made the journey of a lifetime, one of those voyages that you share with others year after year, because what remains in our memory will always be the best gift one can take away from such a travel experience.