In the footsteps of the Chachapoyas:
A Journey into the Soul of the Amazonian Andes

As I head toward the Utcubamba River Valley, I encounter a ribbon of villages, each with its own rhythm and soul. At the southern end is Leymebamba, and to the north is Cocachimba, separated by about 120 kilometers, or a three-hour drive. My recommendation is to take at least five days to explore this route at a leisurely pace, although the time spent will largely depend on individual traveler’s interests and their physical condition.

Toward the southern end, there are two must-see attractions. The first is the Leymebamba Museum, which offers an in-depth look at the Chachapoyas people, a culture that flourished in these mountains between 800 AD and 1400 AD. This museum visit is made even more interesting by its director, Dr. Sonia Guillen, whose passion and knowledge enrich the experience. Highlights here include the more than 200 mummies recovered from the remote Lake of Condors, a site accessible only after a demanding 45-kilometer trek.

For me, the second major attraction of this destination is La Petaca, a series of mausoleums as spectacular as they are little-known. After a beautiful horseback ride along a narrow trail, I reach the viewpoint where, with the help of a telescope, I contemplate the sight of more than 100 tombs, built into a wall over 250 meters high. According to legend, it was here during the conquest of the Incas that one of the Chachapoyas people’s leaders poisoned the Inca Huayna Capac, before then committing suicide. At first, the rebel was buried at La Petaca, but subsequently the Incas disinterred and destroyed his remains, thereby inflicting the ultimate punishment for those who believe in life after death. This story was immortalized in a large mural next to the mausoleums, as a warning to those who plotted to rebel against the Inca empire.

La Petaca is not the only place where it is possible to see Chachapoyas mausoleums. A similar, much more accessible site, often combined with a visit to the museum, is iconic Revash. The route follows a nearly four-kilometer circuit along a path paved with stone, in excellent condition and almost flat, with several viewpoints along the way that offer a close-up look at these ancient funerary structures embedded in the rock.

The fame of the Chachapoya culture has grown through the rediscovery of lost citadels like Gran Vilaya and Gran Pajatén, hidden in the cloud forest. In addition, down in the valley the remains of more accessible settlements can be seen, such as Ollape, Yalape and, of course, the great citadel of Kuelap, the centerpiece of any tour of the region.

Kuelap is a monumental fortress built on a mountaintop at an altitude of almost 3000 meters. The cable car provides easy access, while I enjoy spectacular views of the valley. The citadel, surrounded by a stone wall up to 20 meters in height, is composed of temples, plazas and circular dwellings, decorated with friezes carved in the form of jaguars, serpents, and geometric motifs. I am accompanied on the tour by the archaeologist and historian Dr. Peter Lerche, an excellent source of knowledge for a better understanding of the history, art, and worldview of this impressive culture. Kuelap is unmissable: it represents not only the architectural majesty of Chachapoyas culture, but also their spiritual sophistication and the leading role they played in the northern region of ancient Peru.

The next day, continuing my journey from south to north through the Utcubamba Valley, I reach the Luya area, where another of the great highlights of this destination is located: the sarcophagi that are an exclusive tradition of the northern valley. I particularly recommend visiting the Karajía sarcophagi, which are the most imposing and best preserved. A hike along a 3.5-kilometer circuit takes us to a viewpoint where we see the enormous rock wall that houses dozens of sarcophagi, enabling us to reconstruct in our minds the complex ceremonial process of burial at such an inaccessible location. The main group, made up of six sarcophagi over two meters high and decorated in red, yellow, white, and purple, is one of the most unique and sophisticated funerary sites in all of Pre-Columbian America.

In the afternoon, after a delicious lunch at a local restaurant, it is impossible not to visit the San José Stone Mill. There, I am welcomed by Hans, who tells me how his grandfather built the mill with his own hands, using traditional methods. I learn about artisanal flour production while enjoying the sight of one of the last working watermills in the region, and marveling at the rural wisdom and deep connection with nature it represents. And of course, as on every visit, I enjoy the best cachanga bread I’ve ever eaten, fresh from the wood-fired oven.

During my last few days in Chachapoyas, I decided to shift from archaeological exploration to experience the natural scenery of the region. And so, on my last day, I head to Cocachimba, with its cloud forest, orchids, bromeliads and exceptional biodiversity. Situated at around 1800 meters, this is a paradise for lovers of birdwatching. The hike to Gocta Waterfall, one of the highest in the world at 771 meters, begins in the small town of Cocachimba. The 12-kilometer round-trip hike can be challenging, but horses are available for part of the way.

Setting out before dawn, I’m rewarded with the sight of Peru’s national bird, the cock-of-the-rock (Rupicola peruviana), performing its vivid courtship ritual. I catch a glimpse of the marvelous spatuletail hummingbird (Loddigesia mirabilis), one of the world’s rarest, and am lucky enough to spot an emerald toucanet (Aulacorhynchus prasinus) gliding through the mist. The growing murmur of the water marks the final stretch of the trail. Gocta rises imposingly, its two majestic waterfalls surrounded by mist and greenery. There could be no better place for a well-earned breakfast, and to enjoy the scenery and take photos before heading back early, thereby avoiding the heat and the imminent arrival of crowds of visitors.

In Chachapoyas, history, nature and daily life are uniquely intertwined. And, even though I’ve been here many times, my to-do list in the region keeps growing. This is, without a doubt, a place that one can return to endlessly, and be surprised every time.